Medieval Textiles Files

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Gallery Page 2:

goto: Gallery Page 1 (prior to 1999) or Gallery Page 3 (2003) or Gallery Page 4 (2004) or Gallery Page 5 (2005) for more samples

On this page are images of the samples woven for the annual sample exchange to date. Where known, the year for which these samples were woven are noted along with the information about the weaves and weavers. All samples can be found in the Medieval Textiles Sample Notebook in the Complex Weavers' Library. If any are of interest and you are a member of Complex Weavers, do contact the librarian about borrowing the binder.

Samples (c) 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 by their respective weavers

Samples from December 2000:

Noeline Barkla

Weaver: Noeline Barkla

Weave: 2/1 twill with color interaction

warp: 2/18 worsted in blue and white

weft: 2/18 worsted in blue and white

Notes: From Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450

Gayle Bingham

Weave: Broken twill/diamond twill

Weaver: Gayle Bingham

Warp/weft: Linnay 2 ply

sett: 16 epi/ppi

Notes: type 7 broken twill/diamond twill has been found in 25 specimens from 12 sites in Merovingian Period Germany (350/400-550/600 AD) The quality offabrics falls into 2 main groups: a medium quality with counts of 8/8 and 17/13 threads/cm and fine with counts of 18/18 and 25/20 threads/cm.

Gayle Bingham

Weave: Wabengewebe

Weaver: Gayle Bingham

Warp/weft: 20/1 linen

sett: 36 epi/ppi

Notes: Coppergate, York, 7th & 8th century, No. 1336. Discussion of this archeological dig written by Penelope Walton in NESAT III.

Because of their find location , this is thought to be Alamannic, Bavarian, or possibly Frankish in origin.

Carolyn Priest-Dorman

Weave: Rippenkoeper

Weaver: Carolyn Priest Dorman

Warp/weft: 20/1 wet spun linen from Webs

Sett: 48 epi, 36 ppi

Note: the sett reproduces a sixth or seventh century textile from grave 12 at Giengen an der Brenz in Baden-Wurttenberg, Germany, which was an Alamannic graveyard. The original was woven with slightly smaller singles (0.2mm diameter rather than 0.45 used for this sample) so it would have been even more dense than this sample.

Weave: 3/3 twill

Weaver: Nancy M McKenna

warp: grey singles, z spun, approx 3600 ypp

weft: handspun S approx 3600 ypp wool from Bullens Wullens

sett: 24 epi/ppi

Notes: one of the popular twill weaves as noted in Textiles and Clothing c.1150-1450 by Crowfoot et al.

Weave: 2/1 twill

Weaver: Nancy M McKenna

warp: grey wool, singles z spun 3600 ypp.

weft: Bullens Wullens wool, handspun s, 3600 ypp

sett: 24 epi/ppi

Notes: one of the popular twill weaves as noted in Textiles and Clothing c.1150-1450 by Crowfoot et al.

Samples from December 2001:

	Weave: "warp patterned tabby" Weaver: Gayle Bingham Warp & Weft: 20/1 linen sett: 40 epi/ppi Notes: found on page 147 in Lise Bender Jorgensen's book North European Textiles: until 1000 AD.
	Weave: huck variant Weaver: Carolyn Priest-Dorman Warp/weft: 20/1 cream colored linen sett: 36 epi/ppi Notes: four shaft huck or barley corn alternating rows of paired weft floats with rows of paired warp floats which Ms. Priest-Dorman drafted from a drawdown by Daniel De Jonghe. The original is a linen relic, the "Sluier van Maria (Mary's Veil)" dating to the 11th or 12th C & reposing at the Cathedral of Tongeren in Belgium. Orig is woven at 26/24 threads/cm
	Weave: tabby weaver: Nancy M McKenna Warp/weft: handspun, natural & madder dyed; commercially available yarn in blue (Curl Bros) Sett: 24 epi/ppi The colors used for the original cloth were natural white, madder red dye, and a darker dye color unknown. This pattern is found as early as the 6th or 7th C but often woven in a twill at those earlier dates. From Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450 by Crowfoot, et al.
	Weave: broken diamond twill Weaver: Lynn Meyer Warp/weft: commercially spun, madder dyed wool sett: 32 epi/23 ppi Notes: based on those from Anglo-Scandinavian York as described in Textiles, Cordage and Raw Fiber from 16-22 Coppergate (PenelopeWalton)

Samples from December 2002:

	2/2 point twill, waulked(bottom) and non-waulked (top) weaver: Cynthia Willaims warp/weft: 2/18 merino from Jaggerspun sett, 24epi, 16 ppi notes: this piece was woven at the request of Nadine Sanders for a waulking demonstration. Shown is the before and after pieces of cloth.
	Weave: tabby Weaver: Jan Ward warp/weft: 20/2 wool from Robin and Russ sett: 30 epi, 28ppi Notes: this piece of cloth shows an interesting tracking pattern, making the surface imagry such that most think of it as a complicated twill, but it is plain weave.
	Weave: Huck or honeycomb weaver: Nancy M McKenna warp/weft: 2/12 worsted sett: (top)12 epi/ppi (bottom) 24 epi/ppi on the loom. Off the loom, the bottom piece is at 32 epi/ppi which is the same as the original Notes: from p.80-81 of Textiles & Clothing 1150-1450 draft created by Nancy McKenna from the picture of a small piece of cloth.
	Weave: Broken Diamond Twill Weaver: Tui Hedstrom Warp/weft: 8/1 linen white/gold sett: 24 epi Notes: After weaving, the clothwas washed and line dried, and then mangled using a marble rolling pin and marble cutting board as the mangle.
	Weave: Medieval tablecloth recreation Weaver: Gayle Bingham warp: main: 18/2 tencel, pattern: sewing thread weft: main: 18/2 tencel; pattern: handspun tencel Notes: The inspiration for this weave was the altar cloth found in The Medieval Book of Seasons by Marie Collins, Virginia Davis, and the table cloths in the book The medieval Cookbook by Maggie Black. Top image: the "front" side of the cloth Bottom image: the "back" of the cloth.
	Weave: Shaggy Pile (locks laid into the shed on 2/2 twill) Weaver: Alexis Abarria Warp/weft: handspun, z twist, hand dyed walnut Notes: 2/2 twill, locks placed every 5th row.